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Corsets and Crinolines

by Norah Waugh

ISBN-10: 9780878305261
ISBN-10: 0-87830-526-2
ISBN-13: 9780878305261
ISBN-13: 978-0-87830-526-1
Paperback
1990-12
Routledge


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Editorials


Product Description
The first of Miss Waugh's important books on historic costume, Corsets and Crinolines , set a new standard of accuracy and interest. Showing that the silhouette of women's dress has been in a state of continuous change, allied to economic and architectural evolution as well as changing ideas of sexual attractiveness, she itemises three cycles in the last 400 years in which women's silhouette was blown up to the utmost limit, by artificial means, and then collapsed again to a long straight line. At these points the extremes were invariably considered absurdities and the corsets and hoops were discarded by their users, so that in actuality very few specimens from the earlier periods at least have come down to us. This book is a study of these shapes and how they were produced, how simple laced bodices became corsets of cane, whale-bone and steel, while padding at shoulders and hips gave way to the structures of farthingales, hoops and bustles. Since paintings, prints and photographs of these props are not sufficient to convey their three-dimensional form, Miss Waugh has provided structural drawings and patterns, always made from existing specimens. Each period is enlivened by quotations from contemporary sources - from letters, diaries, satiric poems, tailors' and dressmakers' bills, as well as journalists' accounts, often very amusing in themselves. These describe the garments and their under-structures, and show how they were viewed by the people who saw them. Added are an index, a glossary of terms and materials, appendices on the repair and manufacture of corsets and crinolines, on whalebone and the whale fishery that supported it.

Reviews


Mediocre layout, good pictures, terrible organization
Filled with images from primary resources, this book covers numerous details about these interesting undergarments, from patterns that help show the anatomy to pictures of them in use to caricatures, fashion plates, pictures of extant costumes--there is plenty to see in this book. The written content features the thoughts of contemporaries, quotations from famous figures, and some text by the author explaining usage, construction, styles, etc.

One major problem with the book is its organization. It is not chronological; it jumps back and forth with no apparent reason, and it makes things difficult for someone who is less familiar with changing styles. Also, the quotations do not always seem relevant or even that interesting. It is an ok resource on corsets, but it's not one of the best. I would suggest looking around for something better.

Great book - with layout problems
As most reviewers, I like to book. Still a few problems:
- The problems with organizing it have been explained in another review.
- Why do most of quotes include something negative? Men have always admired women with narrow waists, not just complained how they dressed.
Still, it has so much information and those problems are a minor problem.
- The big problem are the pictures. The book is so old that it would be time - maybe when they'll do a new print - to renew the pics!

In the end I agree with a lot of people - a great book.

Essential Reading
This book is a MUST read for anyone interested in historic costume and undergarments! The wonderful research and illustrations make for interesting reading, and the corset blocks are wonderful for anyone interested in drafting their own corset patterns.

Wonderful Book!
I had to use this book for my final project in my Costume Technologies class and I loved it! I made the 18th century woman's stays (1776) and they worked out wonderfully!

Warning, though: this book is not for people who cannot draft costumes. The patterns are in miniature and are original period patterns; in other words, they will not be sized for you. You will have to draft and make many a mock-up before you are ready to make the actual piece.

All in all, I love this book and intend to make even more of the pieces in it!


Good Information, but where's the substance?
I find this book to be very informative on the subjects, but as an avid seamstress, I would have been even more thrilled with this book if it had more illustrations regarding patterns and pattern pieces. Even though the book lacks in a broad range of patterns, I still believe this book to be great reference material to any and all interested in costume construction from the skin out.


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